[ PEOPLE ]
Is there a person who immediately comes to mind when you think of eggplant? It could be your favorite farmer, or your grandmother, who might have had a special way with the plant, or maybe you don’t associate it with anyone at all. For us, the thought of eggplant will always lead to thoughts of Yotam Ottolenghi and the beautiful cover of his book
The photo of eggplant strewn with thyme and pomegranate is pretty much iconic now. If you haven’t been living under a rock for the past few years, you’ve likely seen it. It’s the kind of photo that makes you hungry, and it’s the perfect cover image: so seductive, how could you resist buying the book?
Cover image aside, once you open the book, you’ll see that Ottolenghi has high regard for the humble eggplant. He’s got plenty of ideas for what to do with this ingredient, all of which are exciting, and none are too similar to each other. His appreciation of eggplant isn’t limited to one cookbook -- take a look at , or the newest US release, , and you’ll find even more ways to treat an eggplant. Yotam Ottolenghi is a constant source of inspiration, for all kinds of ingredients, but there’s something about his work that makes us especially hungry for eggplant.
[ TOOLS ]
Here’s a twist:
the eggplant is so versatile, and such a great supporting character, that it is a tool, and probably the only one of its kind.
An eggplant can handle almost anything you throw its way. You can cook them various ways -- steamed, grilled, roasted, burnt, pickled, and the list goes on -- and you can pair them with so many different flavors. The eggplant’s own flavor is mild, its texture creamy, and it acts like a sponge, soaking up anything you pair it with. All of this makes eggplant the perfect carrier for a multitude of sauces and seasonings. It’ll play a supporting role, and it’ll really let any sauce you pair it with be the star of the show.
Eggplants also make delicious sauce in their own right, but think about the most well-known eggplant dip: baba ghanoush. It’s smokiness comes from the way the eggplants are cooked, the nuttiness from the tahini, and the acidity comes from lemon. Eggplant is really just the conductor, it’s the medium through which these flavors mingle and shine.
Some people warn you about the bitterness of an eggplant, but if you buy them fresh, you won’t find any bitterness to speak of. Just like with any tool, there are markers of quality to look for -- you want your eggplants to have healthy green leaves and stems, and firm, shiny skin.
[ INGREDIENTS ]
CHEAT'S EGGPLANT PARMESAN
This is a shortcut to something that resembles eggplant parmesan.
The sauce is a bright and simple, good tomatoes and olive oil work wonders together. The eggplant takes very little effort, and becomes golden and a little crispy, with tender flesh underneath.
The texture of the eggplant makes the simple sauce feel rich,
and the combination of eggplant, tomatoes, and garlic never fails. Adding parmesan to the mix only makes things better.
Serves 4-6
2 large globe eggplants, sliced into .5”- thick rounds
5 large tomatoes, chopped (about 6 cups)
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups olive oil
coarse sea salt & fresh black pepper, to taste
freshly grated parmesan cheese
Heat the oven to 375ºF.
In a large bowl, toss the eggplant with a few generous pinches of salt and enough olive oil to coat the slices -- it’ll be about 1 cup because the eggplants absorb the oil pretty quickly. Lay the slices on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets and bake until golden, about 25 minutes,
making sure to rotate the baking sheets about half-way through.
While the eggplants are in the oven, get the sauce going.
Cook the tomatoes, garlic, remaining oil, and a few pinches of salt over medium-high heat until the tomatoes break down and the sauce reduces. When the sauce is thick, and most of the tomato water has cooked off,
turn the heat to a low simmer. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and some fresh pepper if you like.
When the eggplants are done, and the sauce is to your liking,
you’re ready to serve. Stack a few eggplant slices on a plate,
with a layer of tomato sauce between each slice, then top with more tomato sauce and a sprinkling of parmesan.
FAIRYTALES WITH NIGELLA + A CUCUMBER/GARLIC YOGURT SAUCE
These little eggplants are great doused in olive oil and roasted, adding nigella seeds gives them a pleasant smokiness. The tangy yogurt sauce is a perfect complement, the roasted garlic really ties the eggplants and the sauce together. The contrast of the hot eggplants and the cold yogurt is nice, but this combination is still great even if your eggplants are room temperature.
Serves 4, as a side
1 1/2 pounds fairytale eggplants
3/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon nigella seeds
Coarse sea salt
1 large unpeeled clove of garlic
1 cup plain yogurt
3/4 cup grated cucumber
Fresh dill, to taste (optional)
Heat the oven to 375ºF.
Top and halve the eggplants, and in large bowl, toss them with salt,nigella seeds, and olive oil until they are evenly coated.
Rub the clove of garlic in the bowl so it’s completely coated
in oil. Lay the eggplant halves and the clove of garlic on a large parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes and check on the garlic, it should yield to gentle pressure and the flesh should be completely soft.
Remove the garlic, and return the eggplant to the oven to finish roasting, about 15 more minutes. The eggplants are done when the
skins are easily pierced through with the tip of a paring knife,
and the flesh is golden brown.
Using a mortar and pestle, mash the garlic with a pinch of salt
to make a paste. Place the paste in a bowl, add the yogurt,
and whisk to incorporate the garlic.
Add the cucumber and dill, and taste for seasoning.
Add more salt if desired.
photos: kristy mucci